SIGNED Magazine #32

3 2024/ISSUE 32 THE AESTHETICS OF GENDER NEUTRALITY 探索設計與中性美學

/ FOREWORD / TEXT / BRANDO MAK PHOTOGRAPHY / HERMANN WITTEKOPF 自我身份與文化意識的交融 THE INTERSECTION OF CULTURAL IDENTITIES In today's fast-changing world, the significance of self and cultural identity is increasingly prominent. This issue invites readers to explore how individual identities are formed and how fashion and design influence self-expression and societal norms. Through thematic stories, interviews, exhibition reports, and event coverage, we aim to showcase the power of visual elements as tools for self-expression and stimulate conversations about inclusivity and representation. This issue centers on the theme of "identity". We will focus on the evolution of gender neutrality in fashion, highlighting current transformations in the industry and emphasizing designers and brands that challenge traditional norms. Their creations empower individuals to break free from conventional gender constraints and explore their authentic selves. Dialogues with key industry figures will provide insights into their inspirations and how cultural shifts influence their work. We will also explore inclusive design and how it reshapes product development across various industries. Innovative approaches prioritizing functionality and accessibility will be introduced to ensure products meet diverse user needs. Through case studies and expert insights, we aim to demonstrate how a gender-neutral perspective fosters creativity and inclusivity. Additionally, we will examine how everyday objects express individual identities and their emotional and cultural significance. Personal stories will illustrate how these ordinary items shape our narratives. Fashion, as a form of expression, extends beyond clothing choices. We will investigate how it serves as a medium for personal and cultural expression, reflecting and shaping identity in various contexts. Designers and retailers advocate for inclusivity and representation, showcasing fashion's role as a tool for social change that influences consciousness and trends. In the digital age, identity formation is influenced in unprecedented ways. We will analyze how digital platforms affect identity construction in today's Internet-driven society, exploring the interplay between online personas and real-world identities. Perspectives from digital artists and influencers will reveal the complexities of selfpresentation in digital spaces and their impact on societal perceptions. Finally, we will challenge traditional notions of identity by rethinking the relationship between people and objects through object-oriented ontology. This framework encourages consideration of how objects shape human experience. Insights from philosophers and artists will illustrate how these ideas apply to their work, fostering a deeper understanding of identity. In this issue of SIGNED, we hope to promote an appreciation for diverse experiences through an exploration of these themes, encouraging reflection on inclusivity and representation in design. Each story reminds us that self and cultural identity is not just individual expression but also an extension of our shared humanity. We hope this issue inspires thoughtful dialogue and reflection as you read. 在當今快速變化的世界中,自我身份在 文化意識中的重要性日益突出。本期主 題探討個體身份的形成,並揭示時尚與 設計如何影響自我表達和社會規範。透 過一系列故事、專訪和報導,我們希望 展現視覺元素作為自我表達的強大工 具,並激發對包容性和代表性的對話。 本期焦點圍繞「身份」,首先聚焦於時 尚領域性別中立性的演變。本故事不僅 展示了當前時尚界的轉變,還強調挑戰 傳統性別規範的設計師和品牌,讓個體 能擺脫傳統束縛,探索真正自我。我們 將通過與行業重要人物的對話,深入了 解其靈感來源及文化轉變對工作的影 響。 此外,我們將探討包容性設計的理念, 特別是在各行各業中如何重塑產品設 計,介紹優先考慮功能性和可及性的創 新方法,以滿足多樣化的使用者需求。 通過案例研究和專家見解,我們希望展 示性別中立觀點如何促進設計中的創意 與包容性。 我們還將深入探討日常物品如何體現和 表達個體身份。這不僅是對周遭物品的 重新思考,也是對其情感與文化意義的 挖掘。個人故事和反思將顯示這些平常 物品在塑造個人敘事中的重要角色。 時尚作為表達方式,不僅限於衣物選 擇。我們將探討時尚如何成為個人和文 化表達的媒介,以及服裝選擇如何在不 同情境中反映和塑造身份。設計師和商 家透過平台倡導包容性與代表性,彰顯 時尚作為社會變革工具的力量,其影響 力往往超乎想像。 隨著數位時代的來臨,身份的形成也受 到前所未有的影響。我們將探討數位 平台在當今互聯網社會中如何影響身 份建構,分析線上角色與現實身份的 相互作用。透過數位藝術家和影響者 的視野,我們將揭示在數位空間中呈 現自我的複雜性及其對個人和社會認 知的影響。

HKDI EDITORIAL BOARD Lay Lian Ong, Elita Lam, Keith Tam, Michael Chan, Terence Wong, Lam Wai Keung, Perry Leung, Kaman Hui, Daniel Chan, Ronald Wong, Irene Tang CREATIVE CONTENT TEAM Koomen International Company Limited Editor:Brando Mak, Lucas Ng, Cherry Lo, Cosco Yim, Ho Sin Wah, Tim Ku, Nicole Go Art Director:Dave Tsui PRINTING Apex Print Limited COVER Hong Kong Design Institute

/ CONTENTS / 16 12 06 From Gender Stereotypes to Multicultural Transformation 從性別刻板印象到多元文化的轉變 Breaking the Dichotomy of Gender How Non-Binary Concepts Influence Contemporary Fashion, Art, and Interior Design 突破男女之對立 非二元性別概念如何影響當代時裝、藝術與家居設計 24 The Interweaving of Reality and Virtuality The Significance of the Online World to Real Identity 真實與虛擬交織 網絡世界於現實身份的意義 32 Immersive Journey Through the Impressionist Era 沉浸於印象派的時光之旅 20 Discovering Your Image, Identity, and Position 找到你的形象、身份和自我定位嗎? Inclusive Design The Aesthetics of Gender Neutrality 包容性設計 中性美學 28 Rethinking the Relationship Between Design and Self An Exploration of Object-Oriented Ontology 重新思考設計與自身關係 導向對象與本體論的探索 38 The Ripples Caused by a Vinyl Record "V Music Library" Drives Change in the Music Industry An Interview with Dr Wong Chi-chung 由一張黑膠唱片引發的漣漪 「 V Music Library」推動音樂產業轉變 黃志淙博士專訪 / THEME STORY / / INTERVIEW / 40 A Fashion Exploration Journey Douglas Gunn, Co-Curator of "The Fashion Union" 時尚探險之旅 / EVENT REPORT / The Hong Kong Design Institute is a member institution of the Vocational Training Council. For more information about the HKDI, please check our website on www.hkdi.edu.hk, or email us at hkdi@vtc.edu.hk SIGNED is produced on behalf of the Hong Kong Design Institute by Koomen International Company Limited. Copyright@2024 by Hong Kong Design Institute. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without the written permission of the Hong Kong Design Institute.

In recent years, the binary opposition of gender has begun to disintegrate, reflecting a broader cultural shift towards the acceptance of diverse identities. We are living in a time that champions the recognition of multiple identities and advocates for the freedom of self-expression. The rise of gender-neutral design is not merely a change in design trends; it represents a significant social phenomenon. It serves as a reminder that rigid stereotypes should confine no individual's existence. Whether it is the clothing we wear, the furniture we choose for our homes, or the art we create, all these elements explore a central question: can we find our identity in a world that transcends conventional boundaries? This design philosophy invites individuals to break free from traditional gender frameworks and labels, allowing for a more flexible expression of self. 在性別特徵去極化的推動下,性別二元逐漸瓦解。無性別 設計概念不僅是一種趨勢,更是一種社會現象,強調多元 身份的接納和自我表達的自由。它讓人們擺脫性別框架與 標籤,無論是服裝、家具還是藝術作品,都在探索如何在 無界限的世界中展現自我,並提供靈活方式來定義身份。 06 / THEME STORY / HOW NON-BINARY CONCEPTS INFLUENCE CONTEMPORARY FASHION, ART, AND INTERIOR DESIGN TEXT / COSCO YIM PHOTOGRAPHY / CASSILS WITH MANUEL VASON, GUCCI, MAISON MARGIELA Breaking the Dichotomy of Gender 突破男女之對立 非二元性別概念如何影響當代時裝、 藝術與家居設計

07 Heather Cassils, Becoming An Image Performance Still No. 1 (National Theater Studio, SPILL Festival, London), 2013 (Courtesy of the artist) 2013年Heather Cassils於英國國家劇院現場的行為藝術表演《Becoming An Image Performance Still No. 1》

10 A Fashion Perspective: Innovative Expressions that Subvert Gender Norms Fashion has always been one of the most immediate forms of cultural expression, often acting as a bellwether for social changes. As the gender equality movement continues to advance, people are increasingly unwilling to be confined by strict clothing classifications that dictate what is deemed appropriate for men and women. Designers like Alessandro Michele of Gucci have taken bold steps in this direction, intertwining traditional feminine elements such as lace and pearls into menswear. Michele’s work suggests that "men can also love art like women, chasing butterflies in the garden," thereby challenging preconceived notions of gendered fashion. In 2017, Michele made waves by merging men's and women's collections into a single show, further introducing the classification of "Mx" alongside Mr. and Ms. in an effort to dismantle the long-standing gender barriers within the fashion industry. This bold move not only demonstrated a commitment to inclusivity but also served as a platform for exploring the fluidity of identity in a contemporary context. John Galliano's "Icons" collection at Maison Margiela exemplifies this innovative approach. The collection employs the numbers "4" and "14" to represent women's and men's lines, yet utilises neutral colour palettes that can be worn by anyone. This achieves an elegant and understated expression of gender neutrality, allowing consumers to step away from traditional gender norms and choose clothing based on personal taste. In this fashion landscape, individuals can present their unique identities without the constraints of outdated categorisations. In 2017, Gucci launched the Mx Collection. 在 2017 年,Gucci 推出 Mx 系列。

09 Artistic Gender Liberation: Beyond the Constraints of the Body The changes within design culture extend beyond fashion; the art world has also emerged as a significant arena for challenging gender boundaries. Notable artists are using their platforms to blur traditional gender definitions and provoke thought about the nature of identity. For instance, Frank Benson’s reimagining of Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Sleeping Hermaphroditus incorporates the form of transgender artist Juliana Huxtable into a sculpture with a metallic sheen. This futuristic expression not only challenges conventional gender definitions but also encourages viewers to rethink the representation of gender in contemporary society. Heather Cassils has similarly shattered stereotypes of female fragility through her performance art. In 2011, she undertook an intense six-month body sculpting programme, meticulously documenting her physical changes, including a strict diet and muscle-building regimen. By the end of the programme, she had successfully gained 23 pounds of muscle within 23 weeks. In her performance, "Becoming an Image", Cassils forcefully attacked 2,000 pounds of clay, capturing each moment with the help of a photographer. These works not only challenge viewers' perceptions of female strength but also articulate a strong resistance against gender norms. The Application of Non-Binary Gender Concepts in Interior Design The philosophy of non-binary gender design is not confined to fashion and art; it is expanding into our everyday lives and influencing interior design. London designer Domhnall Nolan introduced the Play Pieces furniture collection in 2023, offering endless assembly and personalisation possibilities. His modular furniture is typically designed for individuals or couples who value versatility, aesthetics, and functionality in their intimate spaces. This collection includes multifunctional furniture items, such as beds, sofas, and saddles, designed to cater to various settings and needs. Nolan aims to disrupt traditional colour schemes often associated with erotic furniture, opting for warm browns and low-crabon steel instead. This choice symbolises the blurring of gender and power boundaries. Overall, Nolan's work appeals to a demographic that values both design and functionality in their intimate lives. These pieces are not designed for a single demographic; rather, they advocate for the freedom of all individuals— regardless of gender—to explore their desires and lifestyles. Through flexible assembly and adjustment, these designs empower users to discover themselves and engage with their bodies, encouraging them to enjoy life in a more liberated manner. Coexistence of Freedom and Diversity in Design As non-binary gender design gains traction across various fields, fashion, art, and interior design are collectively redefining our lifestyles and expressions of identity. This evolution is not just about aesthetic changes; it serves as a critical commentary on societal norms. We are witnessing a transformation that highlights the importance of inclusivity and respect in design. The rise of gender-neutral design reveals a more profound understanding: every individual has the right to choose how they define themselves. This freedom is not just a personal matter but the foundation of multiculturalism and social progress. The ability to express oneself without the constraints of traditional labels fosters a more inclusive society. The Future of Non-Binary Design Looking ahead, we may witness even more designs and artistic creations that challenge conventional boundaries, exploring the limits of freedom and identity. These works will serve as essential reflections of societal attitudes towards identity and power relations. They will remind us that true freedom lies not merely in escaping norms but in embracing diversity and difference. Maison Margiela's "Icons" Collection. Maison Margiela的"Icons"系列。

Moving forward, it is essential to challenge the boundaries that have historically defined our experiences. The future of design lies in its ability to include everyone's story, creating a more inclusive narrative that allows individuals to live authentically. This evolution is not just a revolution in fashion and art; it is a fundamental upgrade to our way of life, empowering everyone to express their true selves. By promoting collaboration across various fields, we ignite creativity and develop solutions that resonate with diverse needs, ultimately contributing The movement towards non-binary design encourages us to consider the narratives often overlooked in traditional frameworks. It invites us to explore what it means to live authentically in a world increasingly recognising identity's complexity. As we continue to push against the boundaries of gendered expectations, we open ourselves up to a richer tapestry of human experience. Design as a Reflection of Society Design serves as a mirror to society, reflecting our values, beliefs, and aspirations. The rise of non-binary concepts in design signifies a collective shift toward inclusivity, challenging established norms and inspiring the creation of spaces that celebrate individual expression. This inclusive approach not only meets the immediate needs of individuals but also contributes to broader societal change by fostering conversations about identity and representation. As traditional gender barriers break down, we witness new forms of self-expression that embrace individuality and diversity. 10

09 to a more understanding society where each unique experience is valued and celebrated. 時尚界作為變遷的先鋒,推動了無 性別設計。Gucci 的 Alessandro Michele 在男裝中融入女性元素,並 提出「男生也可以像女士一樣熱愛藝 術,在花園中追逐蝴蝶」,重新詮釋 男性形象。2017 年,他推出 Mx 分 類,挑戰 Mr.與 Ms.的標籤限制。 John Galliano在Maison Margiela 的 ICONS系列中使用數字4和14區 分男女裝,但設計以中性色呈現,讓 人們自由穿搭,擺脫性別束縛。 無性別設計在藝術界也展現出獨特的 魅力。Frank Benson創作的雕像以 金屬光澤模糊性別界限,促使觀眾 重新思考性別的定義。而 Heather Cassils 則在六個月內增肌 23 磅,並 在表演中攻擊 2000 磅的黏土,象徵 著掙脫性別束縛的過程。這些作品不 僅挑戰傳統觀念,也引發對性別流動 性的重要思考。 無性別設計的興起,正逐漸滲透進我 們的日常生活,促進了對個人身份 和表達方式的重新思考。Domhnall Nolan推出的Play Pieces家具系列, 採用棕色和鋼架的設計,巧妙地避開 了傳統的性別配色,象徵著性別和權 力之間的模糊界限。這些家具不僅可 自由組裝,更能滿足不同需求,鼓勵 使用者探索自我,表達個性與創意的 融合。 隨著無性別設計的普及,我們的生活 方式和身份表達正在被重新定義。這 場設計變革不僅挑戰了傳統的美學框 架,更強調了包容與尊重的理念。每 個人都應有權選擇如何定義自己,擺 脫標籤,無拘無束地做自己。這種設 計哲學的推廣,促進了更開放的社會 環境,使每個人都能自由表達真實的 自我。 Marble sculpture 'Sleeping Hermaphroditus' by Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini的大理石雕塑《Sleeping Hermaphroditus》 11

12 / THEME STORY / THE AESTHETICS OF GENDER NEUTRALITY TEXT / TIM KU PHOTOGRAPHY / RECTO Inclusive Design 包容性設計:中性美學

In today's rapidly changing society, gender labels are being re-examined and deconstructed. From personal attire to corporate spaces, the role of design extends beyond mere functionality to become a conduit for ideas. Gender is not only a cultural symbol or a marker of social identity; it is a fluid spectrum. As traditional gender boundaries blur, designers are beginning to question what true freedom is. How can design enable everyone to express their authentic selves without restraint? "Inclusive design" responds to these questions, transcending gender frameworks to make products, spaces, and experiences more flexible and open. This approach not only meets market demands but also signifies a profound transformation within the design world, resonating with values of equality and diversity. 隨著社會變遷,性別的標籤逐漸模糊,設計也從單純的功 能性走向觀念性的表達。包容性設計致力於打破傳統性別 框架,使產品和空間更加具彈性與包容,反映了設計界對 多元價值的重視。 13 Gender Fluidity in Fashion In the fashion industry, gender-neutral design has emerged as a significant trend. One notable figure in this movement is Jiyoun Jung, the founder of the South Korean brand RECTO. The brand embraces the concept of "blurring boundaries", encouraging both men and women to step outside traditional gender frameworks and freely mix and match their clothing. RECTO's collection emphasises minimalist lines while integrating a genderneutral aesthetic, allowing wearers to express themselves in ways that resonate with their personal style, regardless of gender. This notion of "gender fluidity" is increasingly prevalent among both highend and streetwear brands. Designers utilise gender-neutral cuts and soft materials to dismantle the distinctions between men's and women's clothing, enabling everyone to discover a style that suits them. Design has evolved beyond mere clothing; it has become an extension of identity, allowing wearers to express their inner diversity confidently.

Inclusive Design in Public Facilities Fashion is just one aspect of the "gender fluidity" concept; its influence extends into every corner of life, including public spaces. Increasingly, these spaces are adopting genderneutral designs to promote social inclusivity. For instance, the newly constructed student centre at James Cook University in Australia features gender-neutral toilets and communal areas, encouraging students of all genders to use the facilities freely and reducing unnecessary social pressure. Similarly, numerous public venues in London have introduced gender-neutral restrooms to accommodate transgender and other gender minority groups, creating a safer experience for all users. These examples illustrate that inclusive design is not merely about functional adjustments; it embodies a societal value of respect and acceptance for diverse identities. The goal of design should be to dismantle existing boundaries and create public spaces where everyone can participate. Multinational Enterprises and Design Practices Beyond public facilities, many multinational corporations are advancing gender inclusivity through their design practices. IKEA is one prominent example. The company challenges traditional domestic roles in its product design and launches diverse promotional campaigns that highlight the variety of family structures. IKEA's advertisements showcase various forms of family life, conveying the message that "everyone can find a lifestyle that suits them". IKEA's commitment to inclusive design is also evident in its retail environments. From gender-neutral display areas to customer-friendly shopping experiences, the company demonstrates how design can support social diversity. This design philosophy encourages consumers to choose products based on personal needs rather than being restricted by traditional gender classifications. The Future of Design: Creativity Beyond Gender Frameworks Inclusive design's power lies in its response to contemporary societal demands for diversity and equality and in its ability to inspire us to rethink the ultimate purpose of design: is it to serve a select elite or to create value for every user? The future design will not be one-dimensional but fluid, diverse, and even part of an open dialogue. It reminds us that true inclusivity does not mean designing a "one-size-fitsall" solution but instead providing an environment where everyone can find their space. As technology advances and societal perspectives evolve, gender-inclusive design will no longer be an experiment for a minority; it will become a mainstream trend in the design world. 14

Designers and brands must continually explore how to remain adaptable in a changing society and create works that resonate with people. Design is not just a tool for creating beauty; it is a means for individuals to rediscover themselves. From fashion to spatial design, the ultimate goal of inclusive design is not merely commercial success; it is to lead society toward a more open and equitable future. Indeed, the development of inclusive design reflects a paradigm shift from made to open concepts, close to universal design that could be adaptable in different user cases, expanding the identify of users in how we understand and engage with identity. The rise of gender-neutral aesthetics in fashion, public facilities, and corporate practices signifies a collective movement towards embracing diversity and equality. As we continue to challenge the conventions that have historically defined our experiences, we pave the way for a richer, more nuanced understanding of what it means to be human. This evolution in design encourages us to consider the narratives often overlooked in traditional frameworks. It invites us to explore the complexities of identity and the myriad ways individuals can express themselves. As we move forward, inclusive design will play a critical role in shaping a society that values each person's story and fosters a sense of belonging for all. Ultimately, the journey towards inclusive design is about more than just aesthetic choices; it is about creating a world where everyone can thrive. By embracing the principles of inclusivity and gender neutrality, designers can contribute to a more equitable society, allowing each individual to express their identity freely and authentically. In this way, design becomes a powerful agent for social change, helping to build a future where diversity is celebrated and everyone can find their place. 在時尚界,性別中立設計成為一股潮 流。韓國品牌 RECTO 鼓勵穿搭者自 由搭配,模糊男裝與女裝的界線,讓 穿搭成為自我表達的延伸。無性別剪 裁和柔軟材質的應用,使不同性別的 消費者都能自信展現自我,擺脫傳統 的穿衣規範。 公共空間也在積極響應無性別設計的 趨勢。例如,澳洲庫克大學的學生中 心設置了性別中立的衛生間,促進所 有學生的平等參與。在倫敦,無性別 衛生間成為許多公共場所的新標準, 為跨性別者與其他性別少數群體提供 更安全和包容的使用體驗。這些設計 案例不僅提升了功能性,更體現了尊 重多元身份的社會價值觀。 作為跨國企業的代表,宜家(IKEA) 也在引領包容性設計的潮流,推廣多 元家庭結構。宜家不僅在家具與家品 的產品設計上打破性別分工,還在賣 場內創造友善的購物體驗,讓消費者 根據個人需求自由選擇,而非依賴傳 統性別而分類。 包容性設計的力量不僅在於回應市場 需求,更在於重新思考設計的目的: 如何為每個人創造價值。未來,隨著 技術進步和社會觀念的轉變,性別包 容設計將不再是少數人的實驗,而將 成為主流趨勢,引領社會邁向更多元、 更平等的未來。 15

16 / THEME STORY / FROM GENDER STEREOTYPES TO MULTICULTURAL TRANSFORMATION TEXT / HO SIN WAH PHOTOGRAPHY / KIJO, MATTEL 從性別刻板印象到多元文化的轉變

Over the past few decades, societal perceptions of gender roles have undergone a seismic shift. Traditionally, boys and girls were assigned distinct roles, leading to stereotypes regarding behaviour, interests, and career choices. However, with the advancement of social culture, these boundaries have gradually blurred, prompting a reevaluation of gender roles and heralding a more inclusive multicultural era. 過去幾十年來,性別角色的界限逐漸模糊,社會對性別的 認識發生了重大變化。自工業革命後,男性和女性的生活 方式被固化定型。男孩被鼓勵參與模型、軍事玩具等競爭 性活動,而女孩則傾向於玩洋娃娃等家庭相關玩具。這些 被灌輸的活動強化了社會對性別的特定期望。 17 Historical Background: The Conventions of Gender Roles The formation of gender roles is intricately linked to historical and cultural contexts. Since the Industrial Revolution, society has maintained a clear division between the professional roles of men and women. Men have typically been encouraged to pursue achievements in science, finance, business, and sports. At the same time, women were expected to remain within the domains of home, education, and nursing. These divisions have profoundly influenced societal expectations regarding individuals and their self-identities. The toy market serves as a microcosm of these stereotypes. Boys are often encouraged to play with models, vehicles, or military toys, fostering competitive and adventurous spirits, while girls are directed towards dolls or kitchen sets, emphasising emotional care, domestic management, and connections to fashion and beauty. Such stereotypical frameworks shape gender socialisation and significantly impact children's self-perception. Psychologist Vivian Hampton notes, "The socialisation process of gender roles begins at a young age, influencing children's selfconcepts and future choices." These role definitions affect not only toy selection but also construct societal expectations that boys should be "strong and independent" and girls should be "gentle and nurturing". Such stereotypes impose invisible limitations on individual development. Social Transformation: Challenging and Breaking Gender Frameworks With the advent of the 21st century, feminist movements and concepts of gender equality have gained momentum. Gender is no longer viewed as a binary classification; rather, it is understood as a spectrum, prompting a reevaluation of gender equality across various societal domains. For example, in the toy market, an increasing number of companies are launching gender-neutral product lines, allowing children to freely choose toys without the constraints of gender stereotypes. The rebranding of Barbie is a symbolic breakthrough in this regard. Once merely a representation of fashion and beauty, Barbie now showcases diverse professional identities— scientists, athletes, entrepreneurs, and doctors—challenging traditional gender role frameworks and providing children with more inspiring role models. This transformation has also encouraged businesses to focus more on diversity and inclusivity in product design. In the workplace, we are witnessing a similar shift in gender roles: women are entering fields such as technology, finance, and engineering, historically dominated by men, while men are increasingly participating in professions traditionally associated with women, such as education and nursing. Sociologist Emily Butler states, "The redefinition of gender roles offers us the opportunity to challenge traditional boundaries and unveil a broader range of possibilities."

Identity Projection in Design: Trends Towards Emotion and Personalisation In the field of design, the exploration of identity and selfrecognition has become a significant trend. Emotional design emphasises that the value of objects arises not only from their functionality but also from the emotional resonance they evoke. Designers are increasingly aware that items are not merely practical tools but extensions of our identities and vessels of memory. Customisation is a concrete manifestation of this trend. Consumers seek products that reflect their personal styles and values, prompting companies to offer more customisation options. For instance, Taiwan's "Woodsmart Workshop" is renowned for its custom furniture, allowing consumers to participate in the design process by selecting materials and craftsmanship, creating items that suit personal tastes and carry emotional significance. This approach deepens the meaning of objects and integrates design into selfexpression. At the same time, the design trends associated with the circular economy are profoundly influencing gender orientation, leading to more diverse product designs. In this context, designers must consider the needs of different gender groups, which has prompted the rise of genderneutral toys and clothing. This not only challenges traditional gender stereotypes but also aligns with sustainable design principles. Furthermore, the circular economy encourages designers to incorporate diverse gender and cultural perspectives into the product development process, thereby promoting the evolution of inclusive design. This signifies a shift where design is no longer targeted solely at a specific gender but instead aims to meet the needs of all users, breaking away from conventional gender roles. As the concept of the circular economy gains traction, design education increasingly emphasises gender equality and social responsibility, encouraging future designers to focus on creating gender-friendly products. This shift contributes to raising awareness and promoting practices related to gender equality within society. In summary, the circular economy not only advances sustainability and emotional connection but also fosters inclusivity and diversity in gender orientation, encouraging individuals to challenge traditional gender roles and facilitating overall social progress. Cultural Reflection: Behavioural Reshaping of a New Generation and the Impact of Social Media In the context of social and cultural changes, the behavioural patterns of the younger generation have become more fluid. They are no longer constrained by gender frameworks, actively exploring personal interests and identities. 18

Boys begin engaging in activities such as dance and painting, which were previously considered feminine, while girls excel in sports, challenging traditional gender expectations. Social media has further propelled this transformation. Through community platforms, young people can share their hobbies and ideas, finding support within their communities. This digital environment fosters cultural inclusivity and encourages a more diverse expression of identities. Additionally, film and television media have started to produce content that emphasises gender diversity—female characters are no longer relegated to supporting roles. Still, they are portrayed as independent, capable protagonists, providing young audiences with new role models. Design Trends and Future Perspectives: Exploring a Diverse and Inclusive World Gender equality and multiculturalism are gradually integrated into the design field, emerging as significant trends. Inclusive design emphasises that products should meet the needs of diverse genders and user groups, thereby promoting societal inclusivity. Gender-neutral fashion has also become a trend, with designers creating works that transcend gender boundaries, allowing more robust expression of self-identity. In the educational sector, we are witnessing a gradual change in teaching methods within schools and families, with an increasing emphasis on the values of gender equality and multiculturalism. These educational principles encourage children to explore their interests freely, establish healthy self-identities, and cultivate empathy and social responsibility. Towards an Inclusive and Diverse Future The transition from gender stereotypes to multiculturalism is a process filled with challenges and hope. It not only reflects a societal rethinking of gender roles but also showcases the contemporary younger generation's exploration and pursuit of identity. Gender and identity can now be self-defined, redefined, and constructed through different mediums on different occasions, depending on one’s preference. This movement makes a variety of design domains flourish, shaped by national culture and released by personal awareness. 隨著21 世紀的到來,社會逐漸接受 多元性別光譜的概念,挑戰傳統的二 元性別框架。玩具公司開始推出無性 別產品,讓孩子們自由選擇。例如, Barbie 重塑人偶產品,展示了多樣 化的職業身份,鼓勵企業在產品設計 中強調多樣性和包容性。設計領域 中,情感化設計強調物品的情感共 鳴,而客製化設計讓消費者參與創 造,賦予物品個人化意義。如台灣 「木城工坊」就是其中的佼佼者。此 外,循環經濟亦成為設計趨勢,推 動長期情感價值與可持續性。 社交媒體的崛起使年輕人自由探索 和分享興趣,鼓勵多樣性,並容許 他們構建和展現自我身份。媒體作 品也引入多元性別角色,提供更多 元的榜樣。在設計趨勢中,包容性 設計強調滿足不同需求,而無性別 時尚則打破了傳統框架,讓人們透 過服裝自由表達自我。 未來的教育與家庭將鼓勵孩子們探 索自己的興趣,我們期待未來的孩 子們能在更開放的環境中成長,無 論他們的興趣和職業選擇如何,都 能成為真實的自我。這場從性別限 制到身份自由的變革,不僅是個人 成長的過程,更象徵著社會邁向多 元與包容的未來。 19

20 / THEME STORY / DISCOVERING YOUR IMAGE, IDENTITY, AND POSITION TEXT / LUCAS NG PHOTOGRAPHY / FENTY BEAUTY, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 找到你的形象、 身份和自我定位嗎? Fashion is more than just clothing; design transcends mere aesthetic desire and becomes a journey of self-discovery. In our daily choices, how do we use design to weave our identities? From the luxurious garments of royalty to the casual T-shirts and jeans of the masses, clothing serves not just to cover our bodies but as a medium for expressing identity, preferences, and cultural backgrounds. Whether it’s a basic white T-shirt or a limited edition sneaker collaboration, these choices conceal a narrative of self-expression. Fashion acts as a "non-verbal message" in our lives, allowing individuals to showcase their personal styles without uttering a word. 時尚是一種探索自我身份的旅程,透過服裝和物件,我們表達了個人風格與價 值觀。無論是穿著簡約白色T還是限量版球鞋,這些選擇都反映了我們的喜好 和生活態度。有些人推崇極簡風,追求「少即是多」的生活哲學;也有人喜愛 收藏公仔,從中尋找文化認同。對於科技愛好者,智能手錶成為管理生活的工 具;而喜愛復古風的人則選擇機械錶,這不僅彰顯了他們的品味,也代表了對 傳統工藝的尊重。

21 These garments symbolised social structure and reflected the values of their time. Today, clothing is no longer confined by class and norms, yet it remains a vessel for displaying identity. High fashion and streetwear coexist seamlessly, allowing everyone to find their own means of self-expression. Brands, cuts, and colour palettes have become our language, conveying unique styles to the world. Whether donning a tailored suit for a formal event or opting for relaxed sportswear, each choice reflects our identities and attitudes toward life. significance of mechanical watches, using vintage designs to express personal taste. From Culture to Fashion: The Identity Codes in Clothing Fashion has never been merely about trends; it is a cultural symbol. Historically, families and ethnic groups have used specific colours, patterns, and materials to signify their identities. In the 17th century, Scots used tartan to distinguish their clans. At the same time, ancient Chinese officials wore garments strictly designed according to their rank, and different classes wore attire that corresponded to their status. Your attire reflects your life philosophy like a mirror. Some individuals are drawn to minimalism, espousing the idea that "less is more". Their clothing designs may be simple yet detailed, embodying a sense of rationality and order. Others collect figurines, exploring subcultures through these objects and finding resonance within them. For those who prioritise technology and efficiency, smartwatches have become essential, enabling them to monitor schedules and health data—choices that underscore their pursuit of functionality. Conversely, some prefer the craftsmanship and historical

22 Designers continually challenge societal stereotypes regarding identity. Innovators like Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo create work transcending mere aesthetics, carrying strong social messages that blur the lines of gender and traditional beauty. Rihanna's Fenty Beauty promotes ideals of "self-love" and "inclusivity" through its diverse sizes and shades. These designs not only influence the market but also reshape people's definitions of identity. An Extension of Identity: Every Choice as a Design Statement Design has permeated every aspect of our lives, extending far beyond fashion. When we choose a sofa, a pair of shoes, or even a phone case, these items reflect our lifestyles and values. Behind every choice lies a hidden story and declaration. Those who favour the "Muji" aesthetic often pursue simplicity in design and an appreciation for the quality of life, reflecting a longing for nature and purity. In contrast, those who love luxury invest in haute couture, showcasing their taste and social status through exquisite designs and premium materials. For collectors, each cherished item — be it a figurine or a piece of art — forms a part of their self-identity and serves as a dialogue with the world. These choices represent not merely material pursuits but also a spiritual connection. Whether wearing a custom T-shirt to a music festival or displaying culturally significant décor in their homes, individuals use design to express themselves and convey messages. Design enriches our lives with meaning and serves as a vital medium for connecting with others. Living Your Identity and Embracing Authenticity The significance of modern fashion has long transcended trends and aesthetics, evolving into a process of self-exploration and identity expression. Every choice we make, clothing or everyday items, tells our stories. Fashion is no longer merely a manifestation of brands; it is a way of self-design, allowing us to become creators of our lives. In this era, we no longer rely on a singular style or trend to define our identities. You might embrace minimalism today and switch to streetwear tomorrow, reflecting your ever-changing mindset and life state. In every choice, we write our stories through design and engage in a dialogue with the world. So, what stories reside in your wardrobe? What treasured items do you hold dear? Each piece acts like a page in a diary, chronicling how you have become who you are today. Fashion is a vehicle of creativity, enabling us to showcase our identities and explore possibilities. Whether you are a designer or an everyday consumer, through design and choices, we are all defining ourselves. 即使時裝的規範已不如過去那樣嚴 格,它依然是展示身份的重要方式。 無論是高訂時尚還是街頭潮流,每個 人都能找到自己的風格,並用服裝 傳遞自我認同。設計師如 Vivienne Westwood 和 Rihanna,透過創作傳 遞包容性與自愛理念,顛覆並改變了 大眾對身份的認識。 設計的影響不限於服裝,還體現在我 們生活中的每一項選擇。簡約愛好者 偏好「無印良品」的質感,而追求奢 華的人則用高訂時裝體現其社會地位。 每一件物品都是一種表達,無論是珍 藏的藝術品還是日常使用的手機殼, 都蘊含著我們的故事。 時尚是一種創意的載體,我們在選擇 中探索自我、展現身份。這些選擇不 僅記錄了我們的過去,也反映了當下 的心境。每一個選擇都是一次自我設 計的機會,讓我們用獨特的方式與世 界對話,展現真實的自我。

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/ THEME STORY / THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE ONLINE WORLD TO REAL IDENTITY TEXT / CHERRY LO PHOTOGRAPHY / BALENCIAGA, DOLCE & GABBANA The Interweaving of Reality and Virtuality 真實與虛擬交織——網絡世界於現實身份的意義

In modern society, our identities extend beyond the names and faces we present in real life. The development of the online world has provided us with the opportunity to shape new selves in the digital realm. From daily sharing on Facebook to creating unique avatars in the metaverse, virtual spaces influence how we present ourselves and alter how we interact with others. We traverse different platforms, engaging with the world through diverse forms of identity—sometimes as an extension of our authentic selves, and, at other times, as a means of concealment. 我們的身份已從現實生活延伸至網絡世界。社交媒體讓我們以從虛實難辨 到公開真實姓名,展示其各種生活形式,元宇宙則提供了創建全新角色的 機會。這些網絡身份既能拓展自我表達,也可能成為一種掩飾,影響我們 與他人的互動。 25 Our online identities reflect the transformations of our era and our emotional needs. Early online platforms offered users a space for anonymous communication. These anonymous forums fostered a unique social atmosphere: free from the constraints of reallife names; users could express thoughts and feelings openly. The anonymity provided a sense of security even facilitated more genuine interactions. With the rise of Facebook and Instagram in the 2000s, the virtual and real boundaries began to blur. People started presenting themselves online using their real names and photographs, transforming online life from an anonymous domain into an extension of real life. These social platforms encouraged individuals to curate and idealise their images— posts and photos meticulously edited, with every shared moment seemingly needing perfect. The "likes" and comments became new forms of social currency, impacting self-identity. At times, this feedback not only satisfied social needs but also validated self-worth. People create and reaffirm their social identity through their friend's network— a form of peer group influence and create "stickiness" to this user-generated platform. People are becoming more vocal and sharing images, thoughts, and ideas to find, refine, redefine and affirm their society's identity, which is given, compromised, but not inborn. Virtual game 'Second Life' allows players to explore identities distinct from reality through virtual avatars. 虛擬世界遊戲《Second Life》讓玩家 透過虛擬形象探索有別於現實的身份。

26 In such an environment, new users have begun to rethink how they present themselves. Recently, text-based platforms like Threads have emerged, encouraging more sincere modes of expression. Young people are moving away from pursuing aesthetically pleasing images to share immediate feelings and everyday details through words. Although Threads is linked to Instagram accounts, its conversational atmosphere resembles a "semi-anonymous" community—where identity is less important than the feelings and resonances that emerge from genuine exchanges. The short messages like X using very limited characters create a mixture of the short form, colloque, images, icons, memes and emojis as instant communicative messages with extended meanings of jargon, such as the multiple meanings of giving out a "like" or thumb up, etc. The self-image online sometimes may not align with one's identity offline; the constructed identity always confuses others and the writers themselves. Thus, self-identity becomes blurred. For this generation, social media is no longer merely a stage for showcasing; it has become a place for seeking authentic communication. These platforms offer a newfound freedom — free from the constraints of external packaging and no longer bound by the number of likes or followers. Balancing Virtual Identities and Real Selves The emergence of the metaverse has further propelled the transformation of virtual identities. People are no longer satisfied with simply showcasing themselves in reality; they are exploring the possibilities of redefining themselves in the digital realm. In the metaverse, we can transcend geographical and reallife limitations to experiment with entirely new identities. We may add more of the hybrid of virtual and product design to meet customer consumption needs and make them unique online. For instance, luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga have started hosting virtual fashion shows and releasing NFT collections in the metaverse, creating a new landscape in the fashion world. It fosters brands to empower one's social identity both on Reality and Virtuality – a balancing art nowadays in the transformative design world. These virtual events are entertainment and allow individuals to find new value within a digital environment. Moreover, the virtual game "Second Life" is a classic example. In "Second Life", users can create personal avatars while engaging in commercial transactions and design products using virtual currency, Tilia. Within this digital community, many have found a sense of belonging that is often unattainable in real life. Whether creating virtual shops, attending virtual concerts, or simply forming genuine emotional connections with strangers, the essence of these virtual interactions is often an extension of self-exploration. However, creating these identities also presents new challenges: amidst increasingly complex digital identities, how do we avoid losing ourselves? Some individuals may gradually detach from real life in pursuit of an idealised virtual persona, even falling into a state of "escaping reality". Virtual identity should not be a tool for escaping reality but rather an extension of self-exploration. We need to find a balance between the real and the virtual to live our true selves. Self-Exploration in a Multi-faceted Identity The evolution of the digital world has granted us unprecedented flexibility in our identities. We can embody specific roles in real life while simultaneously crafting entirely new personas in virtual spaces. However, the true challenge lies in discovering the core self amidst these multifaceted identities. From anonymous forums to the idealised images of Instagram, and immersive interactions in the metaverse, our digital identities resemble a constantly evolving journey. This journey is not merely about finding ways to present ourselves; it also offers opportunities to explore our innermost needs. Some may find confidence in the virtual world, while others establish deep emotional connections with others through social platforms. These experiences remind us that self-exploration does not have

27 a standard answer; finding our unique balance among different identities matters. Regardless of where we choose to express ourselves, maintaining authenticity is crucial. Only then can we establish meaningful existences in this interwoven world of reality and virtuality. The self is not merely a collection of roles but the sum of how we connect with others and how we experience life. This connection, whether in reality or virtually, is at the heart of our existence. Reflection and Future Outlook The rapid advancement of the digital world has made our lives increasingly intertwined with virtual identities. This interweaving presents new opportunities for self-expression while posing fresh challenges. We need not only to adapt to new technologies but also to engage in selfreflection throughout our journey of multifaceted identity. The future will see an even more excellent blending of the real and the virtual, and our task will be to learn how to navigate this duality. Perhaps the answer lies not in which identity we choose but in how we allow these identities to enrich one another, making our lives more completed. In the space between the virtual and the real, we are not merely showcasing ourselves; we are continually creating and reshaping our identities. This is an endless exploration, and each of us is an adventurer on this journey. Make it loud and clear how designers can help to construct one’s identity in physical and virtual space. 然而,隨著 Facebook 和 Instagram 的崛起,人們開始以真實姓名分享生 活,並透過「讚好」和評論獲得認同。 這些回饋成為衡量自我價值的重要指 標,讓使用者在社交平台上尋求他人 的認可。 在 Threads 等新平台上,年輕世代回 歸文字表達,強調即時情感分享,而 非追求精美的影像展示。這些半匿名 社區重視交流中的共鳴,許多用戶認 為「隨手打出的文字,有時比照片更 能表達心情」。這種趨勢讓人們擺脫 包裝,回歸真誠的自我表達。 元宇宙進一步拓展了自我探索的邊界。 Gucci 和 Balenciaga 已在虛擬世界 中舉辦活動,《Second Life》則讓 用戶能建立虛擬形象並進行交易,探 索不同於現實的身份。然而,面對這 些身份,我們需要時刻保持清醒。虛 擬身份應成為探索自我的工具,而非 逃避現實的方法。在虛實之間找到平 衡,才能讓我們的生活更加完整。 "You don't need a corporation or a marketing company to brand you now: you can do it yourself. You can establish who you are with a social media following." RAY ALLEN

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